FMQ Feet

So far we have talked about threads and needles for FMQ.

Today we are going to look at sewing feet you need for Free Motion Quilting.

Free Motion Quilting is a is like doodling with a pencil, but you are using you sewing machine!

You need the machine to allow you to move the fabric in all directions - not just forwards and backwards as you would usually use the sewing machine.

There are two elements that you need to enable the machine to do this:

• Drop or cover the feed dogs

• Darning or free motion foot

Feed Dogs

The feed dogs on a sewing machine grip the fabric and pull it through the machine whilst you are stitching, but they only pull it in one direction. To effectively FMQ you need to be able to move in all directions.

If your machine has a drop dogs function you can drop the feed dogs away and this will allow you to move in different directions whilst you quilt. This is a really effective way of FMQ, but you do need to make sure you check the tension on a scrap before you begin.

A sewing machine works best with the feed dogs up, so sometimes it will struggle with feed dogs down, so it is always worth trying them up if the tension seems off - sometimes this fixes the problem.

Covering the dogs, if you are able, is the best way to FMQ that I have found. The machine functions much better with the feed dogs engaged even if they are not touching the fabric.

Darning or free motion foot

Just with the feed dogs you need a foot that means you can move the fabric around easily in the machine. The foot needs to float over the fabric, but be low enough that the machine is engaged to sew.

There are two feet that you can use.

A traditional darning foot will allow you stitch and float at the same time - sounds funny I know!

The foot will allow you to move the fabric around and doodle!

The only draw back I have found is that it jumps up and down, which is really distracting when you are stitching. Plus you need to keep an eye on the tension whilst you are stitching.

If you can, then a free motion foot for you machine is a better investment. I love the Janome kit. It comes with 3 different attachments for the foot and you can lower and lift the foot mechanism, but it doesn't jump around. There is less stress about the tension as I work.

Out of the 3 attachments I prefer the closed loop to work with, the thread snags less and it is much smoother stitching, but that is just my preference!

I hope this helps on you FMQ adventure!

See you next week with a chat about designs!

Making a Simple Clutch

On my beginners sewing course I like to teach learners how to use each of the basic sewing feet they will get with a sewing machine. There is the basic presser foot, zipper foot and buttonhole.

 

This tutorial for the button hole foot will show you have to make a pretty clutch.

 

To begin you will need:

• Outer fabric measuring 8.5" by 12.5"
• Lining fabric measuring 8.5" by 12.5"
• Iron-on interfacing measuring 8.5" by 12.5"
• Sew in interfacing - heavy measuring 8.5" by 12.5"
• A button of your choice

Attach the iron-on interfacing to the wrong side of the outer fabric and match with sew-in interfacing with the edges of the panel. Lay the lining right side down on top and match the edges, pin in place:

Start sewing from on of the pins on the shorter edge of the clutch. Seam allowance is 1/2". You will need to go all the way around, pivoting corners, but be sure to leave a gap in the shorter edge you started on.

 Trim the corners:

 

Pull the clutch right side out and iron flat:

 

 

 

You will need to sew the gap shut that we left open. Just stitch across the gap as close to the edge as you dare!

 

 

Do the same to the other short end. Next we need to measure and mark the button hole. Measure the button and add 1/4" for clearance!



On one of the short ends place your ruler and mark the middle of the side 1" from the edge. From the middle point draw half the distance of the button hole out either way. In my case the button is 1" so the hole needs to be 1 1/4" long, half of which is 5/8" - use the small divisions on the ruler of mark the distance:



 

 

Now put the buttonhole foot on your sewing machine. A lot of modern machines have automatic buttonholes, but not all. Use the machine to make the button holes on the markings - if you have never used your machine to do this practise on a scrap first. I always mark my button hole even with the automatic buttonhole feature so I know it is in the right place.

 

Using a seam ripper or sharp scissors to cut the button hole out:

 



 

Check that the button slips through easily:

Now we need to make the clutch up. Fold the clutch in 3, making sure the button hole is on the top:

Pin the sides in place and sew up the clutch:

Close the clutch and using a pencil mark the button position through the button hole. Sew the button in place and voila, a gorgeous clutch for carrying your threads, sewing or ladies essentials!